I’ve braved earthquakes and bullets in my hunt for fabulous fabrics

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One of my earliest memories involves a soldier’s kitbag. I can’t remember whose it was. I can only remember what was in it. The war in the Pacific had just ended, and every day saw soldiers coming home, their baggage stuffed with what Australians call momentoes. Out of the kitbag my playmate and I pulled teak elephants, silver filigree brooches, inlaid boxes, dressing-table tidies made of shells, silver anklets, plastic bracelets – and a saffron yellow silk sari. As I tugged on it, yard after yard of shimmering silk came billowing forth and collapsed around me as softly as a sigh. The end bit, that I now know to call the palu, was interwoven with silver thread. Hundreds of tiny mirrors sewn on to it with tiny cobweb stitches threw spangles of light all over the walls and ceiling. I had never seen or imagined anything so sumptuous.

When I finally got to India in 1971, I realised that the yellow sari was a very inferior object. There were better textiles hanging on the thin brown shoulders of women carrying bitumen to the roadworks, or running on rickety ladders with baskets of wet cement. I began to comb the bazaars looking for similar items. “Old! Old!” I would cry, waving away tourist tat. Out of drawers smelling of oud and sandalwood would come cholis (blouse pieces), some embroidered so finely that the maker must have used a magnifying glass, and others triumphantly coarse and brilliant. Many had been sewn again and again, taken in to fit the torso of a skinny 11-year-old bride, or expanded to control something more ebullient.

I visited the house of a great lady scholar whose daybed was heaped with cushions made of blouse pieces of the finest shisha work. The pieces were mounted on homespun, itself mounted on cotton batting and finely quilted with a regular running stitch in cotton string. “You like them?” asked the great lady. “Alas, they don’t make them like that any more.”

My hunger for great textiles has never diminished. In Vientiane, Laos, I found Hmong highlander women trying in vain to sell their fabulous quilted and appliqued work to Air America pilots. I bought what the women had and the next day they came back with more and better, and I bought them, too. The Hmong have been driven backwards and forwards across south-east Asia. Many have been resettled in the west, where they wear jeans and T-shirts like everybody else. They complain that without their wonderful clothes they have lost their identity.

In a street in Bombay in 1979, an elderly lady in a torn sari hissed to me as she undid a dirty cloth bundle with trembling fingers. What fell out was a Banjara bride’s whole trousseau: from the case for the neem sticks that would serve her as a toothbrush, to carrying-cloths, babyslings and cot-blankets, all woven from the same coarse cotton dyed indigo blue and madder red, tasselled and fringed with worn cowrie shells. There was plenty of Banjara-style work in the tourist shops, but this was old, chaste, geometric and so subtly beautiful that I could hardly believe I might come to own such things. This was not work to sell, but the old lady pushed it towards me. “Please, please,” she said. I pulled out all the money I had in the pocket of my salwar and put it in her thin brown hand. My driver snorted with disgust (here was yet more evidence that the memsahib was an idiot). I made cushions from them. They have been part of my life ever since. The cushions are faded now, and the cowrie shells keep dropping off, but only death will part me from them.

I went to Guatemala and drove up and down mountains looking for great textiles. There were no tourists, because the country was at war with itself. Occasionally, a bullet would ping off the bodywork of my hire car. The hotels couldn’t serve meals because the staff had run away and, in Chichicastenango, I got shaken up by a proper earthquake, but I hung in and got my reward – only a few pieces, mind, but fine. The great textiles have disappeared from those trembling hills. Nowadays, the backstrap looms are used to make coarse travesties and “art quilting” has reared its ugly head. If you like that sort of thing, you can go on a quilting tour of Guatemala, or buy Guatemalan quilt kits online for $35.

My treasured textiles are not art. Tracey Emin’s quilts are. They exist to be exhibited, not used. At first, Emin’s sewn work annoyed me, because I thought it a coarse travesty of women’s craft practice, which is another case of my missing the point. Women’s craft practice is one of the subjects of Emin’s work, which is conscientiously imperfect. The nuns would have cracked a ruler over the knuckles of any girl who made stitches as coarse and uneven as Emin’s. If I am underwhelmed at the prospect of a show of quilts at the V&A in London, it may be because nobody cared to rescue the great textile heritage left us by hundreds of tribal peoples. The great resources of the rich nations have been used instead to preserve work that isn’t a patch on it.

  • Art
  • V&A
Germaine Greer
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Posted by admin   @   15 March 2010
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Mar 14, 2010
10:18 pm
#1 m__2 :

Alexa Meade literally painting on real people.. a walking canvas, impressive result. http://bit.ly/b9qqau

Mar 15, 2010
10:20 am
#2 motorsportprint :

Been painting a new Schumacher in a Merc painting today. Dull. Its a road coloured car! Its a grey canvas with a red circle for his helmet!

Mar 15, 2010
10:19 pm
#3 cnwholesaler :

Handmade Oil Painting on Canvas Lamb3 12 x 36 SZH045 Start From 5 Units Free Shipping:  Handmade Oil Paint.. http://bit.ly/csziDc

Mar 16, 2010
10:20 am
#4 wandering_mist :

My new on in style is called BEEN THERE. What do you think? http://bit.ly/deJcmO

Mar 16, 2010
10:19 pm
#5 shopper007 :

Original Art Oil Painting Canvas Impression France http://bit.ly/9SUpEX

Mar 17, 2010
10:17 am
#6 regrob333 :

RT New painting, oil on canvas / 5×5 ft. http://shimmer.posterous.com/

Mar 17, 2010
10:20 pm
#7 lifesbigcanvas :

New listing Relaxing – Snow monkey macaque original painting on 7 inch box canvas http://bit.ly/dfbqKj

Mar 17, 2010
10:20 pm
#8 terrillwelch :

another day of painting… interesting what the brain does when faced with colours and canvas.

Mar 18, 2010
10:18 am
#9 yellowbyyrd :

lemme use your body as a mural, my own plastic canvas; painting along your contours, portraying the true beauty of the human form, & not su…

Mar 18, 2010
10:20 pm
#10 Civilmouse :

I finished a watercolor today, and transfered two more portraits to these canvas boards I bought. Tmrw I can start painting right away

Mar 19, 2010
10:20 am
#11 RobertCEngle :

RT Abstract Painting on Canvas: Bound for Glory: 36″ x 36″ original abstract acrylic painting on canvas, gallery w.. http://bit.ly/c09VnW

Mar 19, 2010
10:19 pm
#12 philspiez :

New blog post: Pet photo to painting – canvas print? http://albumphotocanvas.com/pet-photo-to-painting-canvas-print/

Mar 20, 2010
10:18 am
#13 angiesjewelry :

Check out my new painting, Black Dronog bird canvas painting 16X20 acrylic http://tinyurl.com/y9whovp at Bonanzle.

Mar 20, 2010
10:17 pm
#14 jeremyjonvomit :

painting is so relaxing, i love painting whether it’s on canvas or on a random piece of wood i find :)

Mar 21, 2010
10:20 am
#15 ClassicArabia :

oil on canvas – SleimanSvetlana (Painting – Oil) http://www.classicarabia.com/art/detail/?id=207

Mar 21, 2010
10:20 pm
#16 karlagerard :

TREES HOUSES BIRDS ABSTRACT FOLK ART PAINTING KarlaG http://item.ebay.com/180484462673 Another brand new painting 11×14-stretched canvas!

Mar 22, 2010
10:21 am
#17 galleryowner :

Yep. This is a painting. “Glowing Irises” by artist Stephen Shub. 18×24 hyper-realism floral art. Oil on canvas. $2000. http://bit.ly/aVQsEJ

Mar 22, 2010
10:21 am
#18 Art_I_Love :

Yep. This is a painting. “Glowing Irises” by artist Stephen Shub. 18×24 hyper-realism floral art. Oil on canvas. $2000. http://bit.ly/aVQsEJ

Mar 22, 2010
10:18 pm
#19 CorkyStory :

http://twitpic.com/19g0fw – OMD you have a masterpiece, Niqqi? Is this painting on canvas or felt?

Mar 23, 2010
10:21 am
#20 icclenomi :

we just totally traumatised the little baby by painting her feet and putting her footprints onto canvas.

Mar 23, 2010
10:20 pm
#21 okaystock :

Sunglasses with Bluetooth SM04 3 Start From 5 Units Free Shipping: Oil Painting Light Study Nook 9PC Canvas Se.. http://bit.ly/baZrNv

Mar 24, 2010
10:18 am
#22 TheColourOz :

RT RT – Nicely considered oil on canvas painting by artist Stefan Dunlop. http://ow.ly/1pvnh

Mar 25, 2010
10:19 am
#24 LaughingFridge :

RT Yep. This is a painting. “Glowing Irises” by artist Stephen Shub. 18×24 hyper-realism floral art. Oil on canvas. $2000. http://bit.ly/aVQsEJ

Mar 25, 2010
10:20 pm
#25 fuckyeahggallin :

Photo: Ecce Homo, GG Allin oil painting on canvas by Josh Wallis. http://tumblr.com/xt77u4evq

Mar 26, 2010
10:18 am
#26 dallashardcore :

EnfantTerrible on Design/Art thread: Painting I did for the back of the DAĽD LP:
Mixed media I printed on canvas:… http://bit.ly/afVax7

Mar 26, 2010
10:20 pm
#27 Sparrow611 :

Boring weekend ahead. I’d like to get to the craft store and get some paint and canvas. I need to start drawing and painting again.

Mar 27, 2010
10:20 am
#28 ajieyoga :

so far so good, just on my bus. YES, I do enjoy it a lot! Great painting, “ballpoint on canvas” keren abissss

Mar 27, 2010
10:20 pm
#29 soup133 :

Painting tonight!!! “DJ Gurl” on canvas ;) its been a long time ;) pix as I go ;) l

Mar 28, 2010
10:20 am
#30 galleryowner :

Yep. This is a painting. “Glowing Irises” by artist Stephen Shub. 18×24 hyper-realism floral art. Oil on canvas. $2000. http://bit.ly/aVQsEJ

Mar 28, 2010
10:18 pm
#31 africanartstore :

Large Beautiful African Black Brother & Sister Children On Swing Oil Painting Art On Canvas Signed By Artist: Larg… http://bit.ly/c6JTPY

Mar 29, 2010
10:19 am
#32 ElizabethLeeN :

Need decor/wall art for a boys’ room? Check out Modern Safari Nursery Canvas Original Painting 16×20. http://bit.ly/cCwnv6

Mar 29, 2010
10:19 pm
#33 SFO_HomeGarden :

Modern Oil Painting Canvas Art Color Dance (fremont / union city / newark) $69 http://3taps.com/p/BMDGSS

Mar 30, 2010
10:18 am
#34 madwithrapture :

RT http://twitpic.com/1bz299 – “Nuptial” Oil On Canvas I’m a sucker for fabric :)

Mar 30, 2010
10:18 pm
#35 Artbeautylife :

… http://bit.ly/bk7TrZ

Mar 31, 2010
10:21 am
#36 keshacfee :

Up from that nap now let me start painting …I need the freedom of the canvas along with some good music to round out this vacay

Mar 31, 2010
10:20 pm
#37 RabbitHoleSales :

ALICE in Wonderland Poster Red Qeen CANVAS Painting Oil http://goo.gl/fb/oht0m

Apr 1, 2010
10:21 am
#38 Artbeautylife :

… http://bit.ly/bk7TrZ

Apr 1, 2010
10:18 pm
#39 iva_duh :

Just sketched out my idea on the canvas. Can’t wait to start painting!

Apr 2, 2010
10:18 am
#40 ChildrensTheOne :

Buy a painting at Canvas for a Cause; support Children’s. http://ow.ly/1u3zi

Apr 2, 2010
10:20 pm
#41 LeeanneMunn :

http://twitpic.com/1cr2on – goodtimes painting while having lunch today canvas in Yaletown

Apr 3, 2010
10:20 am
#42 PphoeniXx :

I’ve been painting canvas’ all night, and they all turned out shiiiit. …I’ll just pay Dancenow to make some :p

Apr 3, 2010
10:20 pm
#43 sperry76 :

Orchid Vase Canvas Print Painting
http://item.ebay.com/170467369529

Apr 4, 2010
10:21 am
#44 zameerabbasGB :

RT love it! RT My life is like a ‘painting in progress.’ My ‘canvas’ is waiting for YOU to add to it.

Apr 4, 2010
10:20 pm
#45 DPIAG :

Waiting for Sunset by Sandra Grissom: This painting is 16″ x 20″ on wrapped canvas and is from a photograph tha.. http://bit.ly/9zboeW

Apr 5, 2010
10:21 am
#46 cnwholesaler :

A line Strapless Floor length Taffeta Bridesmaid Wedding Party Dress HSX036: Oil Painting 4 PC Canvas Set Pillars … http://bit.ly/9edEQt

Apr 5, 2010
10:19 pm
#47 EastSqArtworks :

Painting the soul RT Story behind painting signed today: “The Bay,” Oil on canvas 116×89 cm, 2003-2010. http://post.ly/Y4t9

Apr 6, 2010
10:20 am
#48 reviewsky :

Handmade Oil Painting on Canvas Fishing Boats by Guanzhong Wu 30 x 40 SZH303: Silhouette Sheath ColumnNeck Straple… http://bit.ly/94nrpZ

Apr 6, 2010
10:20 pm
#49 vedaarts :

scottish highland. original oil painting on canvas.: $65.00 scottish highland.original oil pain… http://bit.ly/9qcSCL

Apr 7, 2010
10:18 am
#50 cnwholesaler :

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Apr 7, 2010
10:20 pm
#51 5_dollarshake :

RT Win The Young Picasso Canvas Painting Kit from Ends April 8 http://bit.ly/acMZiY

Apr 8, 2010
10:20 am
#52 Joy_Green :

I painted a seascape picture and a lighthouse Picture. I’m Trying painting on canvas. Its wonderful. Much better results than acrylic paper

Apr 8, 2010
10:19 pm
#53 zacharyhunt18 :

“Bullet Holes”—quick painting with hands on canvas.
http://zyryphocastria.deviantart.com/art/Bullet-Holes-160076419

Apr 9, 2010
10:18 am
#54 Blakkmoney :

RT “The stage is the canvas,I’m the artist,the show is the painting”Jack LIVE april20th (cont) http://tl.gd/q3cnl

Apr 9, 2010
10:20 pm
#55 shawnvoelkercom :

everytime I start a painting of he eats another ice cream and I have to get a bigger canvas! Dudes on a 4ft X 6FT now

Apr 10, 2010
10:18 am
#56 charleskaufman :

Painting timelapse – watch a woman being painted on canvas by C Kaufman: http://charleskaufman.com/creating-a-painting-2.html art kunst

Apr 10, 2010
10:20 pm
#57 okaystock :

Handmade Oil Painting Abstract Flower 3 PC Canvas Set SZH325:  Handmade Oil Painting Abstract Flower 3 PC Canvas S… http://bit.ly/9OGKGe

Apr 11, 2010
10:20 am
#58 iDeepti :

Love your song…..its so divine and melodiously sung. One can start painting a beautiful canvas whilst listening to it. Love…:)

Apr 11, 2010
10:19 pm
#59 art_by_kazumi :

Cute cat painting on canvas for $45 on Etsy. http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=22689874

Apr 12, 2010
10:21 am
#60 TWEETSDRAMA :

With every experience, you alone are painting your own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.

Apr 12, 2010
10:19 pm
#61 yungtoolz :

RT STAR WARS – “Darth Whisperer” – Oil On Canvas Painting by TTW http://bit.ly/doPgZ4

Apr 13, 2010
10:21 am
#62 auntiejill :

Linear Abstract – original oil painting on canvas 16×18: $200.00 Beautiful folds cascade down th… http://bit.ly/EgQYb

Apr 13, 2010
10:20 pm
#63 cnwholesaler :

Handmade Oil Painting on Canvas On the Table 35 X 30 SZH310:  Handmade Oil Painting on Canvas On the Table.. http://bit.ly/d8mPwc

Apr 14, 2010
10:21 am
#64 QLAZIKSOUL :

Painting with needles on a living canvas..

Apr 14, 2010
10:21 pm
#65 biggusink :

painting on canvas

Apr 15, 2010
10:18 am
#66 hsghatora :

Check this video out — Sea at night – Blue textured abstract painting on canvas by Hardeep S Gh… http://youtu.be/2oYRba0LvNE high texture

Apr 15, 2010
10:21 pm
#67 zeanjinsan :

RT With every experience, you alone are painting your own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice. http://tl.gd/spj6m

Apr 16, 2010
10:21 am
#68 stricklandesign :

You should start painting dinosaurs and then re-prime each canvas just to stump your fans in 100 years.

Apr 16, 2010
10:20 pm
#69 borisibanez :

Its acrylic pencil its step one for painting on canvas before you even start wit the acrylic pain

Apr 17, 2010
10:20 am
#70 ebayrss :

Modern Abstract Huge Oil Painting Canvas Large Art 0108 http://ping.fm/7z9tA

Apr 17, 2010
10:20 pm
#71 viadotj :

With every experience, you alone are painting your own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.

Apr 18, 2010
10:18 am
#72 sulaluna :

Ice Age, by Sulaluna, an original painting on canvas http://www.etsy.com/listing/45025260/ice-age

Apr 18, 2010
10:20 pm
#73 jasmyn2 :

My first ever painting done on canvas! http://twitpic.com/1gqcf9

Apr 19, 2010
10:19 am
#74 DafneChardonnay :

Looking forward to body painting next week, Oh My…who will be my next canvas…i wonder?

Apr 19, 2010
10:20 pm
#75 craftygirl91 :

i’ve been painting a hannah montana canvas instead of doing assignments… :P it’s harder than it looks!

Apr 20, 2010
10:21 am
#76 HelpThePiano :

new painting finished: title: ‘Verval’. oil based on printed canvas (20×60cm) with tape, cardboard, fire, glue and http://twitpic.com/1h27ft

Apr 20, 2010
10:20 pm
#77 laura_atchison :

Back from my second oil-painting class with Paul Hamilton. Really put paint to canvas tonight – worked on seeing colors and values.

Apr 21, 2010
10:21 am
#78 LovelandAz :

Thinks it would be a good Idea if we had a canvas painting party on May 15th. Sponsored by Arizona Art Supply and… http://bit.ly/b3lrSE

Apr 21, 2010
10:20 pm
#79 SFO_ArtCrafts :

Kinkade Canvas S/N Oil Painting (saratoga) $895 http://3taps.com/p/B53JAH

Apr 22, 2010
10:21 am
#80 Annielovesparis :

today has been a really crafty day – well buying crafty stuff. 1)material for my quilt, 2)frames and 3)a canvas for painting. yey

Apr 22, 2010
10:20 pm
#81 shopvillager :

Try a small painting on canvas for a tiny spot that needs color http://bit.ly/9CXGgQ Great for the Beach house

Apr 23, 2010
10:18 am
#82 felicianamusic :

.. out of paint. Now this canvas is weak and the painting is ruined. – check him out;

Apr 23, 2010
10:20 pm
#83 EustolioG :

Productive ass day. Got a canvas primed for painting, bought paint for a commission piece and replaced the thermostat housing in my car

Apr 24, 2010
10:21 am
#84 museumtanahliat :

“Cryptic Realism, Heritage and Me”
Painting Exhibition by Mufi Mubaroch
(pencil, oil, acrilik on canvas)

Sunday,… http://bit.ly/cay4Pg

Apr 24, 2010
10:18 pm
#85 pixilam :

needs to buy canvas… i feel like painting something

Apr 25, 2010
10:19 am
#86 CashMoneyTank :

With every experience, you alone are painting your own canvas, thought by thought, choice by choice.

Apr 25, 2010
10:19 pm
#87 Ranger_000 :

Right now I am working on painting over a photo printed on canvas. I know what I want to do, it is just about how to do it…

Apr 26, 2010
10:22 am
#88 CookieBabes :

Shabby Pink ROSES LILACS Chic Oil Painting Canvas 16×20 – eBay (item 110522585496 end time Apr-27-10 18:00:24 PDT) http://ow.ly/1D59G

Apr 26, 2010
10:21 pm
#89 BLShellay :

RT FUNDRAISER:
We are taking bids on this 9″ X 12″ Canvas painting of Amanda Arlauskas
(BL Season 8), Coleen… http://fb.me/wuI5tDUA

Apr 27, 2010
10:21 pm
#91 NadiraZarra :

shopping for painting equipments. yay, i’m back to canvas!

Apr 28, 2010
10:19 am
#92 hsghatora :

3 canvas Modern blue textured contemporary Abstract original painting on canvas: http://bit.ly/aOKpuU via

Apr 28, 2010
10:18 pm
#93 sarahccobb :

I am so bad at painting faces… ESPECIALLY WHEN THE CANVAS IS AS BIG AS MY HAND.

Apr 29, 2010
10:24 am
#94 bsayasane :

I think that if I don’t sew/quilt/or cok this weekwnd I’ll focus on painting. The canvas I purchased last month are all bare. They need art.

Apr 29, 2010
10:20 pm
#95 xxyunnyxx :

Got 2 new canvas some paint and brushes!!!! Exited to start painting again!!!!!

Apr 30, 2010
10:21 am
#96 LOVEJulieLOVE :

On the bright side..I think I’ll get an early start on cleanin the house then do a lil painting! (I have 3 unused canvas I’m itchin to use)

Apr 30, 2010
10:19 pm
#97 Kelij66 :

Oct SneakPeak! 34″x25″ oil/canvas http://twitpic.com/1jtblz

May 1, 2010
10:17 am
#98 hsghatora :

Check this video out — Jagged red contemporary canvas abstract painting by Hardeep S Ghatora http://youtu.be/qcLA2Istdy0

May 1, 2010
10:20 pm
#99 safelight33 :

RT New blog post: Michael Jackson Thriller Speed Oil On Canvas Painting by Timothy Teruo Watters (TTW) http://bit.ly/d9NNQD

May 2, 2010
10:18 am
#100 blite101 :

RT Your life is up to you. Life provides the canvas; you do the painting. Take charge of your life — or someone else will

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